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😍 5/5 - Alma: True Excellence In Every Way
By 👻 @FrozenMe, 02/21/2024 3:00 am
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Alma was close to perfection in every way imaginable - food quality, creativity, balance, and service. We ate at numerous restaurants in Lisbon during our stay, including other prominent Michelin stars. Alma blew them all away. We would go back in a heartbeat. The innovation, artistry and passion of Alma catch you up from the moment you enter. Its contemporary setting is elevated and serene, but warms the food experience rather than distracting from it. The wait staff and a particularly amazing sommelier are a brilliant team in action, refreshingly cheerful, friendly, and excited to share their food culture with you. We were waited on by at least 6 or 7 different staffers, and each brought his own character and enthusiasm into describing the food and the intentions behind it. The sommelier was particularly special, with a remarkably engaging way of discussing the wine pairings for each dish (in our case a different one for 3 different tasting menus). Discussing the thinking behind the chosen pairings with someone so clearly passionate on his topic is such a pleasure. His choices were, of course, consistently spot on. I had reached out to Alma in advance to request accommodations for a vegetarian member of our party. They met this request with an enthusiasm and eye for detail that went far beyond what I normally see. Our vegetarian said she had some of the best dishes of her life there. She deeply appreciated the thoughtfulness with which her personal wine pairings were arranged. This was an uncommon level of care. Our table ordered the Alma tasting menu (inspired by the chef’s signature dishes), the vegetarian version of the Alma, and the Costa a Costa (a ‘tribute to the fish and seafood of our coast’) and so were able to taste the full range of Alma’s offerings. The restaurants delights in many surprise snacks and amuse bouches. Our favorites were an unbelievably tasty and craveable red bell pepper squid ink tempura with pepper dipping sauce, an iced plant with ponzu for our vegetarian, a delightful cauliflower three ways dish that was a lesson in textures, and a palate cleansing bullet of a green curry gazpacho with cucumber. Every bite was a layer of flavors and consistencies and winsomely playful. As we moved into the starters, a dish of carrots with bulghur, apricot puree, goat cheese and cumin oil was lovingly paired with a Quinta de Sant’ ana Reisling 2016, and scarlet shrimp was served with roasted leek, corn, almond emulsion, and orange with a lovely XVIII Talha – Talha A 2022. However, the best starter and pairing of the night was a foie gras served with apple, granola, beet root and coffee, alongside a mind-blowingly excellent D’Oliveras Boal 1992 Madeira. After that plating, we knew were in for a brilliant night. The service pacing and delivery, consistent beauty of the plates, and artistry and balance in the food itself never wavered. An Alentejo style pork with red pepper paste and bulhao pato clam sauce was perfectly cooked and served with a Quint de Monte D’Oro Reserve 2013. For the Costa menu, a sea bass was prepared two ways with both fillet and belly, vegetable puff pastry and roast sauce, accompanied by a Bucacci-Reservado 2019. The desserts were equally lush and flavorful with an Acores pineapple, fava tonka cream, white chocolate and passionfruit dish for our vegetarian, a yuzu sorbet with crystallized algae, and citrus curd for our Costa, and a surprising cauliflower, lemon caramel walnut dish served with a perfectly matched citric, elderflower liquor and vermouth blanc cocktail for our Alma. Eating at establishments like this is expensive, but in our case we strolled away perfectly satisfied with our Alma experience. While we had some meals in Lisbon that tended towards being more technical and refined, the soulfulness, artistry and passion of this restaurant, kitchen and chef won us over completely. All of us would go back in a heartbeat. If you have to choose just one restaurant in Lisbon and can afford this level of fine dining, I suggest you make a reservation (well in advance) at Alma. You won’t be disappointed.
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