Icca is simply a transformative experience. - icca New York - Buy Reservations
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😍 5/5 - Icca is simply a transformative experience.
By 👻 @Alexander K., 08/15/2023 3:00 am
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I have had hundreds of omakase meals at this point and my experience here was one of the very best. Icca is a sushi temple with almost an entirely wood interior with sweepingly high ceilings. I liked this as this was a departure from many sushi establishments where the ceilings are lower and provide a lesser sense of awe for guests. I would describe Chef Kazu in three words: craftsmanship, mastery, and showmanship. The atmosphere is lightened from his lively interaction and his ability to communicate with his guests. I always engage all sushi chefs at the counter as I feel it is a vital part of the experience and to add to my limited knowledge of sushi. His willingness to answer my questions without hesitation was a highlight for me, personally. Our menu included the following: chilled zucchini egg custard, tairagai sashimi, kawahagi with liver sauce, steamed Japanese awabi, awabi liver sauce nigiri, capellini pasta with Hokkaido kegani and uni, Hokkaido wagyu (N34), baby ayu, managatsuo, kinmedai, hon maguro, squid ink sharisotto, iwashi, grilled hotate, madai, botan ebi, nodoguro temaki, otoro, kohada, ishigakigai, Hokkaido uni, unagi, tamago, amadai soup, and corn crème brûlée as the dessert. Every course that was presented to us held their own and were of the highest quality. That is the key to a strong omakase, where no courses are weak and presented in their most optimal way to showcase both the flavor and texture of each item. For me personally, the awabi liver sauce nigiri was one of the best bites of food I have ever had. This is not an exaggeration or an outlandish statement from my perspective. The rich, decadent, and umami saturated liver sauce coated each individual grain of rice with a velvety, viscous consistency. This was harmoniously paired with the optimally warm temperature of the rice; which provided an absolutely orgasmic level of ecstasy for the taste buds. For my next visit to Icca, I will specifically request additional pieces of this unbelievable nigiri if possible. Unfortunately, Chef Kazu could not accommodate my request for additional awabi liver sauce nigiri that night as there was a very limited quantity of it. The other standout dishes included the kawahagi with liver sauce, capellini pasta with Hokkaido kegani and uni, squid ink sharisotto, iwashi nigiri, ishigakigai nigiri, and surprisingly, the corn crème brûlée. Kawahagi, also known as thread-sail filefish, is an exceptionally rare fish with a chewy texture and consistency. The rich liver is extracted and used as a sauce for the thin strips of kawahagi for a somewhat noodle-like experience. The chilled capellini pasta featured luxurious Hokkaido kegani and uni; the combination of all these ingredients was absolutely sublime and a clearly unique item that I've never seen on any other omakase menu. The Italian flair of the menu was continued with the squid ink sharisotto, with the pronounced earthy flavor of the squid ink coating every grain of rice; it paired nicely with the briny, sweet, and creamy components of the Hokkaido uni adorned on top. For the conventional Japanese items, the two items that I favored the most were the iwashi (sardine) and the ishigakigai. As the hikarimono class is my favorite type of neta, this was definitely a highlight for me. The iwashi was quite large and had the clean oceanic taste and slightly oily consistency from the tender flesh. This was definitely of the highest quality, quality that I have similarly seen from Yoshino and Noz 17. The ishigakigai (Bering Sea cockle) was particularly bouncy but tender at the same time; it was an interesting texture as normally clams can be overly rubbery if not particularly dispatched at the counter or stored properly. Chef Kazu understands the temperature of the shari is important, and I observed him switching and changing the rice for every two pieces of nigiri. This involves more work, but this is what I have noticed all the very best sushi chefs do. He uses a blend of two types of Hokkaido rice, not of the koshihikari variety from what I was able to understand. The individuality of the rice grains, the acidic sweetness from the Yokoi akazu, the disbursement of the rice grains on the tongue as the nigiri is pressed up against the roof of the mouth, the formation and volume of the shari, and the aforementioned temperature of the shari were all exactly as they should be in classic edomae nigiri. I would like to say that the "holy trinity" of New York City omakase is represented by Icca, Sushi Noz, and Yoshino. Granted, I haven't been able to try every high-end omakase in the city, but I can confidently say that these three establishments should be on the top of any sushi connoisseur's list. I very much look forward to coming back during my next trip to New York.
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