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😍 5/5 - The Holy Trinity
By 👻 @PookyCake, 01/30/2022 3:00 am
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On top of covering their history and numerous accolades (including a hand-written note from the late Anthony Bourdain), my earlier review of Phnom Penh focused exclusively on their chicken wings. After trying them during their “takeout-only” phase, I made a personal commitment to return and experience Phnom Penh's “holy trinity” once dine-in had resumed. Fast-forward nine months.
The Province has moved into Stage 3 of its restart plan (after briefly flirting with Stage 4). Under this stage, a small semblance of normalcy has resumed, though a number of COVID protocols remain in place, i.e.: the need for physical barriers in some settings; the ongoing requirement for face-masks; and, more recently, proof of vaccination is required when entering non-essential services (think restaurant). While far from perfect, it’s still better than where we were about a year and a half ago. And more relevant to this review, Phnom Penh has finally re-opened for dine-in under this stage of the Province’s plan.
We arrived shortly after 12PM. Much to my surprise, there were only 2 other patrons in line ahead of us. As such, we only had to wait about 10 minutes for a (rather large) table to open up. It’s clear to me that Phnom Penh is still operating on a reduced capacity level, even though this is technically not required. I applaud this because it demonstrates that Phnom Penh isn’t all about profit over guest and staff safety.
Given that we were here for the fabled “Holy Trinity” it should come as no surprise that we ordered exactly that: Chicken Wings, Butter Beef and Beef Luc lac . . . well, and the Lemongrass chicken (we couldn’t help it). Anyway, all the food came rather quickly – I’d say within about ten minutes.
CHICKEN WINGS: I, and practically everybody else, have commented on these at length already; so, I’ll only say that my original comment remains: These wings truly are “chicken wing execution on another level.” With their deceptively simple seasoning (rock salt, sugar, white pepper, garlic and a pinch of MSG), these wings are crispy on the outside and literally bursting with flavour on the inside. They’re accompanied by a lemon sauce for dipping, but this isn’t needed. While I can’t definitively say these are Vancouver’s “best” chicken wings, they should, without question, make everybody’s “top 3” for sure.
BUTTER BEEF: I will confess some initial trepidation upon ordering this dish, if only because I’m not really big on raw meat; however, it is part of the “holy trinity,” so I committed to trying it. The flat, rare beef (it’s not completely raw) is laid out on a plate, soaked in a marinade of soy vinaigrette and topped with a heavy amount of garlic and cilantro. This presentation, while simple, is effective and inviting. After trying the dish, I can see why it’s so popular and where the name “butter beef” comes from: When you put it in your mouth, it practically “melts” like butter. The dish, overall, is refreshing and light. For someone who usually doesn’t order “raw meat,” I made quick work of the butter beef and wouldn’t hesitate to order it again.
BEEF LUC LAC: Of the 3 dishes in Phnom Penh’s “trinity,” the beef luc lac was my least favourite. While it’s large enough to be shared by two people, and therefore offers some good value-for-money, it just didn’t grab me. There was technically nothing wrong with the dish. The rice was fine, the veggies fresh and the beef was tender; however, it was . . . one note for me. The beef, with its beurre rouge sauce, was the only component of the dish with any notable flavour – and even that was a tad on the rich side. But I suppose your mileage may vary?
LEMONGRASS CHICKEN: While not one of the holy “trinity,” we decided to give Phnom Penh’s lemongrass chicken w/ rice a try. In short, it was a fairly large portion but the chicken, when mixed with rice, hit all the right notes. The lemongrass flavour permeated the tender and juicy chicken while the rice served as a nice counterbalance. Having sampled numerous lemongrass chicken dishes over the years, we can say the version on offer at Phnom Penh is technically sound and delicious.
FOOD: 4/5
SERVICE: 5/5
VALUE: 5/5
RECOMMENDATION: In retrospect, we ordered way too much food; however, most everything was delicious. The signature chicken wings and butter beef are definite “must have” items. The lemongrass chicken also managed to hold its own. I think if you want a “legendary” dining experience in Vancouver, Phnom Penh should be on your radar. Highly recommended!
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