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🙂 4/5 - As one of the four 3 star Michelin restaurants in the UK,
By 👻 @Jens S., 09/03/2015 3:00 am
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As one of the four 3 star Michelin restaurants in the UK, The Waterside Inn sets the bar high. And for most of the evening, it meets expectations. Warming up with a G&T at the bar, the complimentary hors d'heuvres are a nice kick starter to give an idea what is to come for the rest of the evening. Having taken a seat in the classic but comfortable dining room, we are presented with an amuse bouche, a clever popcorn soup, made from creamy corn and with bits of chicken and popcorn in it. A promising start to the dining experience! The Menu Exceptionel then "officially" opens with a beautiful dish of lobster with beetroot and caviar, cleverly composed with different textures and flavours - expectations are rising further with every bite. Next comes a velouté of chestnuts and champagne with a single diablotin (a small dumpling, stuffed with partridge and foie gras) in it. A wonderful dish, with warm umami flavours pleasing the palate - I just wish there would have been a few more of the gorgeous diablotins... Next comes a breaded medallion of monkfish in chorizo sauce, and while that was very pleasant and perfectly prepared, it represented a big drop in ingenuity as it was an unsurprising and somewhat "been there, done that" type of dish. The same actually goes for the next dish, roast duck (carved at the table), which was again cooked perfectly but lacked originality. The palate cleanser that followed made up for that in spades - the beautiful dark green basil sorbet found its perfect match in a passion fruit crème: what a strike of genius, unmatched during the whole evening when it comes to inspiration, courage simplicity and ingenuity. Bravo! The yoghurt dessert again resembles the first (lobster) course in its playfulness with different textures and flavours, again very well and carefully composed. The final desert, a yellow plum (mirabelle) soufflé represents perfected craftsmanship, a simple yet lovely and flawlessly executed dish. Strong espresso, a selection of petit fours and a couple of interesting and enjoyable digestives (we went for a 30th anniversary house Armagnac and a Costa Rican aged rum) round off the evening in style. The wine flight that accompanied the menu was pricey, but very well matched with the dishes; the service was always attentive, friendly and professional. Compared to the other two 3 star restaurants I sampled in the UK, my ranking is as follows:1. The Fat Duck - every dish a surprise and great food combined with great entertainment, difficult to top. Coming back is much less exciting as the menu does not vary often enough.2. Gordon Ramsay's, Hospital Road - a very consistent experience where every dish held its own and offered a number of unspectacular but memorable surprises3. The Waterside Inn - would be at par with Mr. Ramsay if the fish and meat dish had been less classic and more imaginative.Alain Ducasse, the last 3 starred food palace in the UK, is next on the list!
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